Day 4 - West of Trevor to BandB near Tyn-y-coed - 16 miles

I am sitting on a cozy sofa and the log burner is blazing. I am showered and shaved and drinking tea, feeling more human than I have in four days. It is a far cry from earlier, huddled in my tent with constant rain throughout the night and this morning. I kept telling myself that the sound of rain on the tent fly sheet would be worse than the reality of being in it, and this was indeed true, but knowing tonight I had booked accommodation, both dry and warm, with cooked food and a proper bed, was something that helped lift my spirits even more during the day.

And it was, at times, another draining day. It started at seven with a walk through rain-dripping pine forest as I descended towards Trevor, which I had hoped to reach last night. I’m glad I stopped where I did as the camping opportunities further along the way seem pretty meagre. My morning highlight was crossing the Pontcysyllte aqueduct, something I have always wanted to do. It was a variation on the route and meant I bypassed any cafes that might be in town but it also meant I could fulfil my ambition and it also saved me dropping down the valley to the river Dee and climbing back up the other side: I am still worried about my energy levels and challenging climbs. The walk across was a vertiginous experience: on the left side as I walked was a narrow path with a railing to protect me, to the right there was a water channel one boat wide and beyond that nothing to prevent a fall.

Viaduct

After a short walk along the canal I hit fields and got my first glimpse of Offa's Dyke on the edge of a grass field. I followed it for only a hundred yards or so then I was crossing wet green fields and walking high-hedged narrow lanes for some miles. At one point I feasted on damsons from a tree on the road, making the most of nature’s harvest and there was a bit more of the Dyke - a long mound of earth with trees on top, usually bounding a field and an obvious feature once you know it is there but otherwise easily missed. There were gently rolling hills that had me pausing too regularly to rest, a consequence I think of not enough water and wholesome food, but overall it was undeniably beautiful countryside.

The day ended with a walk through pine forest accompanied by the sound of logging machines and a knee jarring decent to my bed and breakfast. There were three other guests and we swapped stories of our journeys. They are all walking south to north using accommodation every night and having the majority of their luggage couriered between legs. All are seasoned walkers and all agree it is a hard route. One of them made the observation that this walk is not just about the body when faced with the next hill, but also about the mind. I think he may have a point given that at some time each day I have had fleeting thoughts that it might be my last. It is a comfort to know that people travelling more lightly than me have the same issues. Those people think my approach both impressive and mad. On the latter issue I think they have a point.